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The Best Creality 3D Printers of 2022

The Best Creality 3D Printers of 2022

In the past few years, at-home 3D printing has matured quite a bit from something exclusively for tinkerers with a weekend to devote to assembly and calibration. In 2022, there are many affordable options that anyone can get set up and printing in a matter of hours. This has also caused an overwhelming number of home 3D printers on the market today, and it can be difficult to choose the best one for your specific needs. To help you decide, we’ve narrowed it down to our top picks for entry-level and all-around printers Creality offers in 2022.  

Best Entry-Level Printer of 2022: Creality Ender 3 V2

 

The Creality Ender 3V2 stands out for its value and quality

The Creality Ender 3 V2 stands out for its value and quality

An entry-level 3D printer is typically suited for hobbyists and beginners. People who are getting started with 3D printing might not have the expertise or patience for more complicated jobs. Unlike ten years ago, you are able to choose one from among dozens that have similar specs with wildly varying price points.

The Creality Ender 3 V2, the second version of the Creality Ender 3, is the best entry-level printer on the market as of 2020.  It stands out for its value and quality. 

  • This model rings in at less than Rs.50000. This makes it one of the most affordable models in its class without too many concessions in terms of quality.

  • It is a compact 3D printer, meaning it won’t take up the entirety of your workspace with its bulk. With a print bed of 220 x 220 x 250 mm, it fits on any desktop, workbench, or table with room to spare.

  • The Creality Ender 3 V2 added an updated silent motherboard, allowing the machine to run lower than 50 decibels(dB) while printing. To quantify, normal speech hovers around 60 dB, while the hum of a refrigerator is about 40 dB.

  • The print bed is composed of a material called carborundum, or silicon carbide, a hard ceramic material with extremely high durability and resistance to heat.

  • The Creality Ender 3 V2 is ideal for makers who are interested in a lower cost 3D printer that still has many modern features included with more premium machines. Its low price point, and convenience features make it a great first 3D printer or as a supplement to an existing 3D printer collection.


    Why Creality?

    Before we dive into the features that differentiate 3D printers, it’s worth asking why we decided to focus on Creality. The main reason is that Creality printers are known for their ease of use and overall quality.

    The process of going from an unopened Creality printer to a setup that’s ready to print is typically very short compared to other 3D printer brands. Most users report spending just an hour setting up a new printer and calibrating it. Better yet, Creality printers are built so that you don’t have to get the adjustments absolutely perfect to produce good prints. That means that you can focus on bringing your designs to life as quickly as possible rather than wasting time on endless tweaks.

    Another thing to like about Creality is that the company’s printers are reliable. Creality 3D printers are trusted by professional print shops that run their machines 24/7. They rarely need to be taken offline for repairs, which means that you don’t end up spending more money on your printer.

    It’s nice that Creality is such a major player in the 3D printing world. An ever-increasing number of designs can be printed using Creality machines. If you want to add more capabilities to your printer, Creality makes a wide variety of accessories and there are plenty of third-party components that are compatible with the company’s equipment.

    Features to consider before you buy a 3D printer

    If you’re new to the world of 3D printers, it can be hard to know what all the specs mean. To help you navigate the technical jargon, we’ll identify the most important features of Creality 3D printers you need to know about and help you decide which one is right for you.

    What do you want to print? Printer style

    Perhaps the best place to start with choosing a Creality 3D printer is to figure out what style of printer you need. There are several different types that vary in capabilities and cost.

    The most basic 3D printer style is a Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printer. Several of the Creality printers we reviewed, including the CR-10S and Ender 5 Pro, are FDM printers. These models are often favored by beginners because they are relatively affordable.

    However, FDM printers do have some drawbacks. These printers operate by heating filament and extruding it into the desired shape. The problem is that when you create layers, the filament forms blocky lines as it is stacked on top of itself. So, you may need to spend a fair amount of time smoothing the exterior of your product with an FDM printer.

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How to 3D print waterproof parts

How to 3D print waterproof parts

3D printers promise endless applications. However, sometimes reality gets in the way of that promise. One example of where that can happen is when trying to print something that needs to hold water, only to watch it leak like a sieve. Read on to find out to avoid such a tragic waste of liquid.

Is it possible to print waterproof and watertight parts?

Yes, it can be done but it’s not always easy. To get the best results, you need to pay special attention to both the material and the settings you use. And even then, some post-processing may also be needed to get a part that is truly and reliably waterproof.

It is also worth talking about what we mean when we say waterproof. When talking about clothing or electronics, the word waterproof is usually used to indicate that an object is capable of keeping water out. For anything that needs to keep water in such as a vase, a more appropriate description would be watertight. Some industries like electronics also use the term water-resistant to describe something that can water out, up to a limit. Such as a phone which is only waterproof up to a certain depth.

In this article, we will use waterproof as an umbrella term to include all the above. The steps you take to make a print waterproof will also help it to be watertight and water-resistant. Although, most parts will not meet the same criteria that your waterproof phone is held to so it’s probably best not to go deep-water diving while relying on a printed part to protect anything sensitive.

How do you print waterproof parts?

To get waterproof parts, there are three areas that are important. The material used, your slicer settings, and post-processing.

It is possible to print waterproof parts with a variety of different 3D printing technologies. Some industrial printers with six-figure price tags are even capable of making extremely reliable waterproof parts with robust materials like metal. However, most people don’t have access to those printers so for this article, we will be focusing on the most common and accessible 3D printing technology, FFF printing.

Materials for printing waterproof parts

Water soluble support

Most FFF filaments are thermoplastics. Plastics are generally good at being waterproof which is why most water bottles are made of plastic. Plastics are also not normally degraded or damaged by water which is also why so many of those plastic bottles end up in the ocean and are likely to stay for a long time to come. However, there are a lot of different types of thermoplastics and all of them have different properties which are worth knowing before you try to print your waterproof parts.

A note on swelling: Many 3D printing materials are hygroscopic, meaning they absorb water. Some are worse than others (PETG, Nylon, PLA) and some are better (ABS, PP) but most absorb water to some extent. The result is, if you leave a part in contact with water for a long time it may start to swell. The amount of swelling is usually small, but it can deform your part and even cause it to split or break in a way that stops it from being waterproof or watertight. The swelling will not continue indefinitely or cause the part to degrade completely like it would with untreated wood. Instead, the part will likely swell up to a certain point (depending on the material) and then stop. If you have ever printed a part that was initially waterproof but started leaking over time, this was probably why. It should be possible to dry your part to remove the swelling but allowing a part to swell and then drying it repeatedly may cause increasingly more damage.

PLA

PLA is one of the cheapest and most common FFF printing materials. PLA can be used to create waterproof parts, but it does have some disadvantages. As mentioned above PLA can be prone to absorbing water and swelling.

PLA is also biodegradable. Meaning that (under the right circumstances) it can be composted. This is not an issue if it’s only exposed to perfectly clean water, but if you were to leave a PLA printed part submerged for an extended period in a body of water that contains microorganisms, like a pond, there is a chance that your part could start to degrade. Albeit slowly.

Lastly, PLA has low heat resistance. Meaning that if you wanted to use a printed part to hold hot water, it would likely deform. This can be solved by heat treating your part after printing. Heat treating is explained more later in this article.

PETG

PETG is another common and affordable FFF material. PETG is particularly hygroscopic meaning it’s prone to swelling. On the flipside, PETG has a high heat resistance so printed parts can be kept outside in direct sunlight without issue, and they can stand up to hot (although not boiling) water.

PP

PP is one of the better options for printing waterproof parts. It is less prone to swelling than PLA or PETG and it is chemical resistant. PP can also be used to print flexible parts that hold their shape and do not break after repeated bending.

ABS

ABS is a decent option for printing waterproof parts. It has a high heat resistance and is not as hygroscopic as many other materials. The best reason to use ABS, though, is that you can use Acetone to vapor-smooth parts printed in ABS. Vapor-smoothing will be talked about more in the post-processing section.

PVB

PolySmooth is a PVB-based material made by PolyMaker that is easy to print and has mechanical properties similar to PETG. The big advantage of PolySmooth for printing waterproof parts is that it can be vapor smoothed using isopropyl alcohol. The process is similar to how ABS is smoothed using acetone but isopropyl alcohol is much safer and easier to handle than acetone.

Which settings to use for printing waterproof parts?

Just as important as the material you choose, is the settings you use. FFF printing works by stacking layers of material on top of each other, one at a time. The problem with that is that each layer has a chance of leaving a small gap between itself and the layer below. The following settings are mostly aimed at avoiding those gaps or mitigating their effect:

Wall line count

Wall line count is the setting that determined how many layers thick the outer wall of your print is. Generally, more wall lines will increase the chance of your part being waterproof. The reason is that they reduced the chance of water having a direct path through all the walls present. If under extrusion or some other issue has caused a small gap in one wall, the next wall acts as a backup to plug that gap.

A wall line count of 3 is normally a good place to start. It’s worth noting that increasing the wall line count for thin parts will have no effect. There is also one situation where a single wall is the best option, and that’s when using vase mode.

Spiralize outer contour (vase mode)

Spiralize outer contour (also known as vase mode) is a setting that enables smooth printing of objects with a single wall thickness. It turns the print into one continuous print path which means there are no retractions between layers and therefore no Z seam.

That is the biggest benefit of vase mode. The Z seam is one of the most common areas for gaps in your printed part to occur. Removing that seam makes parts with even a single wall capable of being waterproof. However, this setting is not suitable for most parts as it requires a very specific geometry. Vases, cups, and bowls are the kinds of prints that can be printed using vase mode.

Temperature

Gaps can appear when one layer is not properly bonded to the layer below. A higher printing temp is one way to increase layer adhesion. It’s generally best to print at as high a temp as your material will allow. Beware that when you print at too high a temp, the material can boil as it comes out of the nozzle, leading to more issues and potential gaps.

Flow rate

Under-extrusion is a major cause of gaps in your part. Even well-tuned print profiles can suffer from under-extrusion at times as they normally prioritize high dimensional accuracy, structural strength, or visual fidelit over other considerations. A slight increase to flow rate should be enough to see an improvement. Start with 105% and increase until you see diminishing returns.

How to post-process a part to make it waterproof

Ideally, you should be able to pull a printed part off the build plate and have it be completely waterproof. However, sometimes a bit of post-processing is needed to shore up an almost waterproof part. Here are some of the main methods you can use:

Apply a waterproof coating

This is the easiest and most straightforward way to waterproof an otherwise leaky part. Applying a waterproofing spray, a clear coat, or even just water-resistant paint can help plug up any tiny gaps in your part. Multiple coats may be needed depending on the part and the coating used.

Vapor smoothing

Vapor smoothing using acetone for ABS or isopropanol for PVB is a great way to make a part more waterproof. Vapor smoothing is the process of using a chemical to melt the outer surface of a printed part just enough that it smooths out the part and removes the layer lines that are synonymous with FFF printed parts. Vapor smoothing is normally done to make a part look better but since it fuses the layers of a printed part together, it’s also a great way to fill gaps and make a part more waterproof.

Temperature treatment

Temperature treatment can be done in two ways and for two very different goals. The first is to apply heat to the outside of a print (usually with a heat gun) so that the outer surface melts just enough to fuse the layers together in order to remove the layer lines. This works in the same way as vapor smoothing and it helps remove gaps in the surface of a part and therefore makes it more waterproof.

The second is to heat soak a part over an extended period in an oven or other heated chamber. This process is called annealing. Annealing a part allows the layers of the entire part (even the interior) to bond together more strongly. This increases the strength of the part and makes it more temperature resistant in the future. This can result in PLA parts that have equal or higher temperature resistance to that of ABS or PETG parts.

What are the applications for waterproof parts?

3D printed vase

Once you have perfected printing waterproof parts, there is a whole world of possible applications. One obvious area is food and drinks related prints like bowls, cups, or water bottles. While all these prints are possible, we would advise against it as FFF prints are often not food safe and the process for assuring they are is beyond the scope of this article.

However, there are plenty of other applications for waterproof parts. Some examples are:

Scientific research

3D printed parts can be perfect for helping in scientific research related to fluid dynamics and microfluidics. An example of this in practice are the researchers at Cardiff University using 3D printed parts to study microfluidics in a way that is cheaper and more flexible than traditional alternatives.

microfluidic devices 2Watch the video

Gardening

Plant pots, composting containers, and hydroponics are just a few areas that are ripe for 3D printing to help with gardening. Beware that if you are using a printed part outside then you should make sure the material you use is suitable to the climate and environmental conditions. More robust materials like PETG and ABS might be a better choice than PLA, for example.

Water features

3D printed water features can be perfect for your pond or fish tank. And with the complete creative freedom that 3D printing provides, there’s no reason you can’t create an epic rube Goldberg-style water feature that fills your whole house with the soothing sound of gently flowing water.

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How to print with nylon filament

How to print with nylon filament

Choosing the right 3D printing filament can be a challenge. With so many available, it can be difficult to weigh your options and make the best decision based on your use case and application. In this blog, we’ll go over one of the most versatile 3D printing materials out there: nylon filament.

What is nylon filament?

Nylon 3D printing filament is a synthetic polymer known as a “thermoplastic,” which means that it softens upon heating, liquifies upon melting, and hardens when cooled – and is able to repeat these processes. In addition to FFF 3D printing, nylon is also used in other 3D printing processes, such as selective laser sintering (SLS), as well as more traditional processes like injection molding.

What are the properties of nylon 3D printing filament?

Nylon 3D printing filament is strong, flexible, durable, and abrasion-resistant-resistant. It also has a low friction coefficient, which enables its wear and impact-resistant properties.

Nylon filament

When compared to other filaments, nylon is stronger but less stiff than both PLA and ABS. It is, however, much more flexible and features better impact resistance and chemical resistance, especially for applications where greases are commonly used.

Nylon 3D printing filament also has some negative properties. It is prone to warping – a result of the material crystallizing. It is also hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air. This can lead to filament that is wet or damp, resulting in inconsistent final prints with lower mechanical properties. As such, nylon 3D printing filament should be stored in a dry place, such as the Ultimaker S5 Material Station. If your nylon filament should become wet, however, all is not lost. Moisture-sensitive filaments such as nylon, PVA, and TPU95A can be dried overnight (for 10-20 hours) and then used as normal.

How to print with nylon filament

When printing nylon, you can print it alone with a single-extrusion 3D printer, or in combination with PVA and Breakaway material on 3D printers that allow for dual extrusion, such as the Ultimaker S5. When printed with a dual extruder, nylon can also be combined with TPU 95A or another color of nylon.

Printing with nylon filament

3D printer settings for nylon

Nylon is typically printed at temperatures between 230 and 260 °C, with a build plate temperature between 40 and 70 °C. The exact temperature will depend on your 3D printer, nozzle size, and print profile. On the Ultimaker S5, for example, with a 0.25 mm print core, Nylon is printed at 230 °C, while on the same printer with a 0.8 mm print core, you’ll set your temperature to 245 °C. In any case, one should print well above Nylon’s melting temperature (190 °C).

It's also worth mentioning that 3D printers without all-metal hotends may not be capable of reaching the high temperatures need to print nylon – so keep this in mind when preparing to print.

How do you keep nylon 3D printing filament from warping?

As mentioned above, nylon is prone to warpage. To prevent this, you must ensure that you have applied a sufficient amount of adhesive, such as Magigoo PA, to your print bed. Using a heated build plate – typically at 40 °C – during the 3D printing process will also act as a preventative. As an added precaution, you can also use Ultimaker Cura to turn off your 3D printer’s cooling fans during printing, so that your nylon 3D printing filament warps less. Ultimaker Nylon 3D printing filament, however, is not as prone to warpage or delamination – and is more resistant to humidity than other nylon 3D printing filaments – and therefore does not need additional accessories to create a good printing environment.

Common uses of nylon filament

Because of its strength, durability, and flexibility, nylon 3D printing filament serves as a solution to engineers, designers, and manufacturers who are seeking to achieve multiple mechanical requirements in a single print. Some of the common real-world uses for nylon 3D printing filament include:

Functional prototypes

Because of its multiple beneficial properties – especially its ability to replicate the flexible characteristics of mass-produced, injection-molded nylon parts – nylon 3D printing filament is a good candidate for functional prototypes. Companies such as Idea Reality, a Hampshire, England-based product design and development studio, have used these properties to help them iterate, refine, and create high-quality final products.

The studio used a nylon 3D printing material to create a prototype for a backpack that takes the weight off the wearer’s shoulders via an ergonomic design – meaning it needed to withstand and adapt to near-constant fluctuations in pressure from the wearer’s movements.

Tooling

Nylon’s versatility and reliability are well suited to the creation of tools for use in hard-working environments and harsh conditions such as those seen in the automotive industry. Formula 3 team Van Amersfoort Racing, for example, used a nylon material that contains 20% carbon fiber, to create a rear-alignment tool for its vehicles. The Clariant PA6/66 20CF (no longer available but replaced by NovamidID1030CF10).

The tool utilizes carbon rods, from which a stretched wire acts as a reference for a racecar’s center point – meaning it’s extremely important, that the rods are accurately positioned. Standard materials such as PLA are not strong and stiff enough, but Ultimaker’s open-filament system along with a nylon filament were perfect for the job.

Industrial models

Because of its flexibility and durability, design studios use nylon 3D printing material to create industrial or architectural models. These models can be printed or assembled into complex, previously unattainable designs and shapes because of nylon’s versatility.

End-use parts

Nylon’s exceptional strength and durability make it appropriate for final, or end-use, parts that can be used long-term. Take US-based Snow Business, which uses nylon 3D printing filament and water-soluble PVA to create nozzles for the snow machines it manufactures for the TV and film industry.

snow machineWatch the video

Rather than the two-part process it previously used with ABS material, Snow Business prints its nozzles with nylon in one piece, leaving finished parts unmarked and unblemished, and saving time during post-processing.

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Free STL Files

Learn how to find free stl files

Once you’ve purchased a 3D printer, it’s time to begin printing. You may already have an idea of what to print and how to print it – or even be able to design 3D prints yourself. On the other hand, you may be wondering how to get started, or you may not have the time to create and design your own files. This blog will focus on STL files, their uses, and where to find free repositories of files that you can use on your 3D printer.

What is an STL file?

Ultimaker blog - STL files

An STL (for “Standard Triangle Language” or “Standard Tessellation Language”) file is one of the most common file formats for both 3D printing and computer-aided design (CAD). These digital files contain geometric information about a design that is meant to be 3D printed. In STL files, these designs are represented by triangles – hence “triangle language” or “tessellation language.” Because these triangles share edges, their location can be determined by a computer or slicing program (more on this below) to create a full image that can be 3D printed. The more complex the design, the more triangles are used to represent it. An STL file does not contain any information regarding texture, color, or qualities such as flexibility or strength – only the shape and geometry. Alternatives to STL files such as OBJ files, however, can store data related to color and texture profile.

How to use STL files

Once created or downloaded, STL files are generally exported into a 3D printing slicer, such as Ultimaker Cura. There, the STL file is converted into a language your 3D printer can understand “G-code,” which tells it exactly how to print a model or design. It is also possible to directly download G-code on certain websites like printables.com. This requires you enter your printer settings and configuration before downloading the file and does entail some increased risk, with the benefit of not having to manually slice the file.

Should you have the technology, STL files can also be created with a 3D scanner, which can scan an object and create an STL file from that scan. Most desktop 3D printing users, however – and especially beginners – will either download STL files from online repositories, or design their own using CAD or other 3D design software, depending on experience and use case.

Where to find free STL files

The internet is full of websites and resources for those seeking STL files. Some of these sites offer STL files for sale, others for free, and others still a mix of both. Below are five of our favorites.

  • Thingiverse. Perhaps one of the most well-known repositories, Thingiverse offers a wide variety of both for-sale and free STL files. Its UI is clean and easy to use, and it contains thousands of user-created designs and models, which run the gamut, from toys to tools

  • Cults. Cults hosts a large variety of STL files, sorted by category, including architecture, gadgets, games, tools, and jewelry. If you’re looking for a file in one of these areas, chances are you’ll find it on Cults

  • Free3D. Free3D is all about – you guessed it – free 3D files. Not all are STL files, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty to choose from. Here, however, you’ll mainly find STL files geared towards hobbyists or more casual 3D printing users. If you’re looking for professional applications, you may need to look elsewhere

  • STLfinder. STLfinder lacks the polished overview of other sites out there, but its simplicity is a benefit. Just type whatever you’re looking to print into the search bar (essentially the only thing populating the home page), and you’re good to go

  • Yeggi. Yeggi is similar to STLFinder, in that it functions predominantly as a search engine for free 3D design and STL files, of which it is home to more than 2 million. Unlike STLFinder, however, searching on Yeggi is a slightly more refined experience, thanks to filters and other options that enable you to better home in on exactly what you’re looking for

  • Printables. Formerly known as Prusaprinters.com, Printables is one of the fastest-growing STL file repositories. In addition to thousands of downloadable files, the site also has great community engagement, and regularly runs contents to discover and spotlight amazing 3D designs

  • MyMiniFactory. MyMiniFactory caters predominantly to tabletop miniatures and terrain. It offers a great number of free files, although creators are also able to sell their designs – enabling them to pursue careers as full-time 3D designers

Still haven’t found the right STL file? In addition to those listed above, here are several other popular websites that host free STL files.

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Basics of 3d Printing

3d Printing - 101

Introduction 

A 3d printer is an additive manufacturing technique where 3D objects and parts  are made by the addition of multiple layers of material. It can also be called as  rapid prototyping. It is a mechanized method where 3D objects are quickly made  as per the required size machine connected to a computer containing blueprints  of any object.  

The additive method may differ with the subtractive process, where the material  is removed from a block by sculpting or drilling. The main reason to use 3d printer  is for 90% of material utilization, increase product life, lighter and stronger. 3D  printing is efficiently utilized in various fields such as aerospace, automobile,  medical, construction and in manufacturing of many household products. 

History 

The 3D printing innovation is not a new concept as many think. When FDM (fused  deposition modeling) licenses had expired in 2009, the 3D printing became a new  innovation topic. What's more, because of which it turned out to be more  

mainstream, individuals envisioned that FDM was the just a single added  substance producing system. Be that as it may, the initial 3D printing procedure  was SLA not FDM, and its first patent was recorded in 1980's. Here is the historical  backdrop of 3D printing innovation, from 1980 to today.  

In 1980's there was the introduction of 3 primary 3D printing systems. Dr. Kodana  was the first person to present layer by layer approach for assembling and  furthermore he was the principal individual to create fast prototyping strategy.  What's more, he made a progenitor for SLA. He polymerized a photosensitive gum  with the assistance of UV light, however, did not succeed. Shockingly for Dr.  Kodana, the full patent detail was not recorded by him before the one-year due  date after the application. the causes of 3d printing innovation can be followed  from 1983.  

In 1983 Charles hull was the person to do a patent on stereolithography. Frame  designed the term stereolithography in august 8, 1984 patent application for  "Contraption for creation of 3 dimensional questions by stereolithography".  Furthermore, was the main individual to make SLA-1 (stereolithography) machine  in 1987.

Charles hull was the founder 3D system Corporation (one of the biggest and more  propel association working in 3d printer division today). Hull characterized  stereolithography as the unique technique which is used for making solid objects  by printing successive layers of ultraviolet curable material on top of other. In  frame's patent, he clarifies, a concentrated light emission light is centered around  the surface loaded with a fluid photopolymer. The light ray which is controlled by  a computer draws each layer of the model on the surface of the liquid. wherever  the bright light strikes the surface, the photopolymer polymerizes and changes to  solid. Using the software CAD/CAM mathematically slices (converts into layers) the  models. then the process builds the models layer by layer. 

During the year 1999 3D printing sector had started to begin the demonstrate  distinct diversification with these two very specific regions emphasis that is clearly  defined today. They were very high end 3D printing and still they are very  expensive which were geared up towards the par production for high value and  complex parts. This are growing rapidly and ongoing but the results are now visible  in production applications across the automotive, aerospace, medical and in  jewelry sectors. 

At the lower end of market, the 3D printers that today are been seen. During this  term there, price was a war between the 3D printing companies with the increase  in improvement, accuracy, speed and materials. In 2007 the market saw the first  system under 10,000$ from 3D systems but it never hit the market as supposed to  be. This was due to the market influence of other companies. 

All through in 2000 3D printing technology kept on developing to make lower priced models with multiple features. In 2009, was the year where the FDM patents  fell into the public domain, giving an expansive wave for the development in FDM  printers and due to the drop of the price of desktop 3D printers, the technology  was more accessible and increased visibility. A French company named Sculpteo  was started in this year which had offered 3D printing cloud and online printing  services using stereo lithography or laser sintering. which was another step towards  3D printing. 

As the various additive processes developed. It is said that soon metal removal will  no longer be the only metal removal process done through a moving head  through a 3D work envelope converting the mass of raw material into desired  shape layer by layer. In 2010 there was a first decade in which metal end use parts  like engine brackets and large nuts would be made by printing instead of  machining.

 

Principle 

i.Modelling: The object or the model which has to be printed first it has to  designed or modeled using a CAD (computer aided drawing) tool like solid works  etc. By the 3D scanner or by the digital camera and a very unique  photogrammetry software. These 3D printed models were created with help of the  CAD results in the reduction of errors which were found and can be corrected  before printing. In manual modelling process of preparing geometric data for 3d  computer graphics is similar to plastic arts such as sculpting. Based on this data 3- dimentional models of the scanned object can be produced. 

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After modelling in CAD tool the model often be (in .skp, .dae, .3ds or some other  format) then it needs to be converted to either a .STL or .OBJ format, to allow the  printing software to be able to read it. 

ii.Printing 

After the model has been converted to STL, it must be first examined for “errors”,  this step is called the “fixup”. In most of the cad applications produce errors in  output STL files errors like sekf intersection, improper holes, face normal has to be  corrected. 

PAGE 3 

Once the file is converted to STL, the file has to be processed by a software called  “slicer” which will convert the model into series of layers and produces a G-code  file containing instructions to a specific type of 3D printer. This G-code file can be  printed by using 3D client software (which loads the G-code and uses it to instruct  the 3D printer during printing. In practice the client software and the slicer program  exist, including Cura, Slic3r, repetier host, pronterface and skeinforge as well as  closed source programs like simplify 3D and KISSIicer3D. 3D printer follows the G 

code instructions to lay down successive layers of liquid, powder, paper or sheet  material to build model from a series of cross sections. The such as plastic, sand,  metal etc can be \used through a print nozzle. These layers, which correspond to  the virtual cross sections from the CAD model, are joined or automatically fused  to create the final shape. Depending on what the printer is making, the process  could take up to minutes or hours. Printer resolution describes the layer thickness  and X-Y resolution dots per inch (dpi) or micrometers(μm).The layer thickness  which can be found can be around the 100gm mark, although some of these  machines such as the object connex series and the 3D Systems ProJet series can  be very much printed as thin layers as 16µm. These resolution of X-Y is comparable  to that of laser printers. The particles (3D dots) are around 50 to 500µm (510 to 250  Dpi) in diameter.  

The method of Construction of models can take away from several hours to  several days, depending how big the model is, method used, printing speed, and  complexity of the model. Typically, the time can be reduced to few hours  depending on the type of machine used and size. 3D printers give designers and  concept models using a desktop size of 3D printer.

 

iii.Finishing 

The printer produced resolution is very much sufficient for many of the applications  but the printing will be a slightly oversized version of these desired object which  can be the standard resolution and then the process of removing material can  give greater precision. Some printable polymers allow the surface finish to be  smoother and improved using chemical vapor processes. There are some of the  additive manufacturing techniques which are very capable of using multiple  materials in these course of constructing parts. These techniques are very much  able to print in multiple colours and colour combinations simultaneously. Some  printing techniques require internal supports to be built for overhanging features  during construction. These supports must be mechanically removed or dissolved  after completion of the printing. The commercialized metal 3D printers which very  much likely to involve in cutting the metal component of the metal substrate after  deposition. The very new process for the GMAW 3D printing which will allow for  substrate surface modifications to remove many aluminum components manually  with hammer. 

Applications

 

i.Education: New learning material: often you must want new teaching  materials but may not be able to afford to budget for them. Now their resources  can be made using a 3D printer, saving  money on your department budget.  When we will be Printing our own  learning, materials is not only cheaper  but it will be almost always quicker too.  Even though students are traditionally  taught through books and theory,  kinesthetic learners prefer to learn  through using aids and materials. 3D  printing which also allows you to bring  any of the subject matter to life as the  physical aid to engage all of your students for a very long period of time increasing  that their learning and improving their problem solving and critical thinking  capabilities.

 

ii. Apparel: 3D printing has spread into the world of clothing with fashion  designers experimenting with 3D-printed shoes, and dresses. When we talk about  the commercial production, Nike is  using 3D printing to prototype and  manufacture the very same football  shoe for the American football players  and the company New Balance is 3D  manufacturing custom fit shoes for all  the athletes. 3D printing has come to  the point where companies are printing consumer grade eyewear with on  demand custom fit and styling (although they cannot print the lenses). On  demand customization of glasses is possible with rapid prototyping. 

iii. Construction: With the help of 3D printers, we are able to build civil models  like prototype of building or plan structures. So that the customers can easily  visualized the models. 

 

 

iv. Dental: With the help of 3D printers, we are able to print jaws it can be a  prototype or it can be a jaw bone which can be transplanted as per the needs.  An 83-year-old British woman recently underwent the first-ever custom transplant  of a lower jaw made by a 3D printer. 

v.Medical: Medical applications for 3D printing are expanding rapidly and are  expected to revolutionize health care. Medical uses for 3D printing, both actual  and potential, can be organized into several broad categories, including: tissue  and organ fabrication; creation of customized  prosthetics, implants, and anatomical models;  and pharmaceutical research regarding drug  dosage forms, delivery, and discovery. The  application of 3D printing in medicine can  provide many benefits, including: the  customization and personalization of medical  products, drugs, and equipment; cost effectiveness; increased productivity; the democratization of design and  manufacturing; and enhanced collaboration. However, it should be cautioned  that despite recent significant and exciting medical advances involving 3D  printing, notable scientific and regulatory challenges remain and the most  transformative applications for this technology will need time to evolve.

 

vi. Domestic Use: The domestic market of the 3D printing was mainly  practiced by hobbyists and enthusiasts and was very little used for many of the  practical household applications which are inapplicable. A working clock was  made and gears were printed for home woodworking machines among other  purposes. 3D printing was also used for ornamental objects. Websites associated  with home 3Dprintins include coat hooks, doorknobs etc. 

Motion Configuration in 3d Printer 

i. Cartesian Configuration 

ii. Delta Configuration 

iii. SCARA Configuration 

iv. Polar Configuration

 

Materials used in FDM 3d Printing

Material 

Description 

Printing  

Temp

Bed Temp

Polylactic  

acid(PLA)

PLA (Polylactic Acid)  is one of the two  most commonly used  desktop 3D printing  materials . It is the  ‘default’  

recommended  

material for many  desktop 3D printers.

180 - 220 

20 - 55

Acrylonitrile  

Butadiene  

Styrene(ABS)

ABS (Acrylonitrile  Butadiene Styrene) is  another commonly  used 3D printer  material. Best used  for making durable  parts that need to  withstand higher  temperatures

220-235 °C 

80-110 °C

Nylon (Polyamide) 

Nylon is an  incredibly strong,  durable, and versatile  3D printing material.  It is very Flexible  when it is thin but it  is high inter layer  adhesion and the  nylon lends itself well  to things like the  living hinges and the  different functional  parts.

235-270 °C 

60-80 °C

PET (Polyethylene  Terephthalate)

PET (Polyethylene  terephthalate) is an  industrial strength  filament with several  great features. 

230-255 °C 

55-70 °C

 

Electronics 

i.Controller 

The controller is the brains of our 3D Printer. Almost all 3D Printer controllers are  based on the of the Arduino microcontroller. While a lot of variations exist. they  are exchangeable and basically all do the same thing. Now and then the  controller is a remain solitary circuit load up with chips on it, in some cases the  controller is an Arduino Mega with an extra board (called a "shield').  

ii.Stepper Motor 

A stepper motor (or step motor) is a brushless DC electric motor that partitions a  full pivot into a numerical of equivalent advances. The motor's position would then  be able to be instructed to move and hold at one of these means with no criticism  sensor, as long as the engine as deliberately measured to the application. Stepper  motor moves a known break for each beat of vitality. This beat of vitality is given  by a stepper driver and is suggested as a stage. As every movement moves the  motor a known partition it makes them helpful gadgets for repeatable arranging.  We will utilize stepper motor to move the bed carriage and different gatherings in  their individually X - Axis, Y - Axis, Z-Axis. 

iii.Heatbed 

A heated build platform HBP improves in the printing quality of the 3d model by  helping prevent warping. As extruded plastic cools it shrinks slightly. When this  shrinking process does not occur throughout the printed part evenly, the result is  the warped part. This warping is very commonly seen as corners being lifted off of  the build platform. Printing on a warmed bed permits the printed part to remain  warm amid the printing procedure and permit all the more notwithstanding  contracting of the plastic as it cools underneath softening point. The warmth bed  prompts higher complete quality that works with materials, for example, ABS and  PLA. A HBP can likewise enable clients to print without rafts.

 

iv.Endstops 

Mechanical switches are less complicated to implement and cheaper than  optical end stops because they do not require a circuit board and only use 2 wires  for connecting the switch. Resistors Pull up and down can put close to the main  board. Contact-less magnetic switches are called read switches. They are  proximity switches that close (or switch over) if a magnet comes close enough  (usually 1 mm or less) and open if the magnet moves away. Reed switches are  utilized as sensors in home caution frameworks to identify open windows and  doors. 

v.Stepper Driver 

A stepper driver is a motor that acts as the kind of intermediate between a stepper  motor and the controller. It streamlines the signs that should be sent to the stepper  motor keeping in mind the end goal to motivate it to move. Here and there the  stepper drivers are on independent circuit sheets that are connected to the  controller through links. Now and then the stepper drivers are on little circuit sheets  that connect straightforwardly to the controller itself. For this situation, the  controller will have space for no less than 4 of these little circuit sheets (one for  every stepper motor). Finally, sometimes the stepper drivers are soldered right onto  the controller itself. 

Hardware 

i. Linear Rods 

ii. Threaded Rods 

iii. Linear Ball Bearings 

iv. Pulley 

v. Rigid Frame 

vi. 6mm Gt belt 

vii. Couplers 

viii. Motor Mounting Brackets 

ix. X-y-z axis Carrier

 

Software 

i. CAD Tools 

Computer Aided Design are used to design 3D parts for printing. Computer aided  design (CAD) is where we use the computer system to assist in the creation  modification , analysis or optimization of a design. Computer aided design software  is utilized to expand the efficiency of the creator, enhance the nature of  configuration, enhance interchanges through documentation, and to make a  database for manufacturing. Computer-aided design files in the most genuine  sense are intended to enable you to effectively change and control parts in view  of parameters. Now and then CAD files are alluded to as parametric records. The  parts which are being represented as a tree of Boolean operations which are  performed on primitive shapes such as cubes, spheres, cylinders, pyramids. 

ii.CAM Tools 

Computer Aided Manufacturing, or CAM, tools handle the intermediate step of  translating CAD files into a machine-friendly font used for our 3D printer electronics.  Here we will be using a software which will be an integration of object slicing,  Generation of G codes and M codes, Object Placement and other printer  settings. Usually to turn a 3D part into a machine format, CAM software needs a  STL file. The machine friendly format that is used for printing is called G-code. 

iii. Firmware 

3D Printer electronics are controlled by an inexpensive CPU such as the Atmel AVR  processor. Atmel processors are what Arduino-based microcontrollers use. These  processors are exceptionally weak contrasted with even the normal 10 to 15-year old PC you find in the landfill these days. However, these are CPUs so they do run  primitive software. This primitive software they run is the firmware. The entire  software chain that makes the 3D Printer work, the firmware portion of it is the  closest you get to actual programming. In fact, the term for what you are doing  with firmware is called cross.

 

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The Best Creality Ender 3/Pro Upgrades and Mods

The Best Creality Ender 3/Pro Upgrades and Mods

The Ender 3 is an amazing 3D printer. For the money, it's hard to find one that will give you better prints right out of the box. However, it's far from perfect.

In this guide, I'll show you the top must-have upgrades and mods for the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro—both 3D-printable and purchased upgrades/mods.

A note on this guide:

In researching this guide, I found a lot of others with massive lists containing every upgrade and mod under the sun—unfortunately, many of those upgrades are pointless wastes of time and money. So, in this guide, I'll cut through the BS and cover the most impactful items that will give you better prints while also improving your overall printing experience.

ENDER 3 UPGRADES AND MODS

Upgrades and mods to 3D print

Below are the top 3D-printable Ender 3 mods and upgrades you can perform. Tons of other printable mods exist, but this is the core list that will give you the best bang for your print time.

Board fan guard

Before you print anything else, print this mod. The location of the mainboard fan is directly beneath the build plate, meaning bits of filament can fall in and damage the fan or board. The model is available on Thingiverse.

Filament guide

This filament guide holds the filament away from the feeder, allowing for a more consistent feed rate and less skipping. It snaps directly into the side of the upper support.

Cable chain

This cable chain is a must-have for preventing dangerous cable snags when the bed moves along the Y-axis.

Display PCB cover

This simple screen cover protects your Ender 3 display's PCB (printed circuit board) from damage.

Bowden tube fitting fix

If your Bowden tube has popped out of place or if you're having print quality issues, you might want to print these pressure fitting shims that will prevent your Bowden tubes from shifting or popping out during printing.

Beeper silencer

You've probably noticed how loud the Ender 3 beeps when navigating the menu interface. This beep can level villages and knock satellites out of orbit. This 10-minute print mutes the beep quite a bit, getting rid of that annoyance and protecting our countrysides and space assets.

 If you're using a 3D printer enclosure, I recommend printing these mods using ABS or PETG filament; ambient enclosure temperatures can cause PLA to warp and deform over time.

Silent mainboard v1.1.5

There are two main sources of noise on your printer: 1) fans, and 2) the drivers (chips) that run your stepper motors. The "whirring" noise you associate with printing is caused by the cheap stepper motor drivers used on the stock Ender 3 board.

Enter the Creality Silent Mainboard (v1.1.5). This board directly replaces your existing Ender 3 mainboard, upgrading your printer to the silent TMC2208 stepper motor drivers. This is the biggest "sound" upgrade you can make. It reduces your printer's noise from approximately 48dB to 36dB, with the remaining sound coming from the Ender 3's fans (which can also be upgraded to quieter fans).

If I had to choose a single upgrade from this guide (other than OctoPrint), it would be this one. Combined with the MeanWell PSU upgrade also mentioned in this guide, I often forget my printer is running since it now generates so little noise.

Of course, in addition to decreasing noise, this board and its upgraded stepper motor drivers improve the quality of your prints.

MeanWell power supply (PSU) upgrade

There are several reasons to upgrade your Ender 3 to a MeanWell PSU including noise, safety, and even reducing bed-leveling issues.

 

Noise

Compared to the stock PSU whose fan runs continuously, the MeanWell PSU only runs when it needs to—usually less than 20% of the time. This means a much quieter printer, especially when paired with the silent board upgrade. This reason alone made the upgrade worth it to me. I work in the same room as my printer, so noise is a huge issue.

 

Safety

MeanWell PSUs use higher quality components than the cheap stock unit, providing cleaner power with fewer of the electrical spikes and sags that could pose a safety hazard.

Reduce auto-bed-leveling issues

If you're using an auto-leveling sensor such as the BLTouch or EZABL, the MeanWell PSU's consistent, clean power reduces issues related to power ripples and grounding.

Form factor

The MeanWell PSU is noticeably thinner than the stock unit, which is handy if you're using an enclosure and need to relocate it.

Which one to buy (and where)

The MeanWell LRS-3500-25 PSU is the correct 24V MeanWell power supply for the Ender 3, and this upgrade takes about 20 minutes to perform, excluding PSU housing print time.

Glass Print Bed

There are tons of different build plate surfaces out there: metal, magnetic, BuildTak, painter's tape, and tons more. But after printing for many years on several different printers, I've always had the best experience with glass.

Glass beds are supremely flat, fixing the all-too-common "warped Ender 3 bed" issue that many of us experience. Glass beds also save on prep time, are easy to clean, and offer effortless print removal with a semi-glossy print finish.

Choosing a bed

I wrote a comprehensive guide to 3D printing on a glass bed if you'd like to dive into the details. tl;dr; Choose a thin borosilicate glass bed, and adhere it directly to the existing build plate using small binder clips. This 235x235mm glass bed is the one I recommend for the Ender 3.

BLTouch auto-leveling sensor

Creality3D BL Touch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor for CR-10/CR-10mini/Ender-3/Ender-5/Ender-5 pro

Bed leveling the Ender series 3D printers is key to the perfect first layer and overall print quality. Unfortunately, it's also one of the most annoying "chores" in 3D printing. Just when things are going well, you realize you forgot to relevel your bed and things look terrible.

But what if a simple sensor, installed in just 45 minutes, could automatically level your bed for you every time? That's what BLTouch does.

How BLTouch works

BLTouch uses a small probe to build a mesh of points at the beginning of each print to determine exactly how unlevel (or warped) your bed is, and in which directions. It then takes that into account when performing a print, altering each GCODE instruction as needed to account for the imperfect build surface.

The process

Here's a breakdown of what goes into this upgrade:

Hardware: The probe mounts next to your print head assembly and connects to the existing Ender 3 mainboard.

Software: A slight firmware modification is needed to allow BLTouch to work.

Slicer/OctoPrint: You'll need to insert a few lines into your slicer (and OctoPrint, if equipped) so that each GCODE file you generate will include some BLTouch instructions at the top.

This Instructables guide does a good job of explaining how to do this on the CR-10, though the process is similar for the Ender 3.

Which one to buy (and where)

I recommend this BLTouch sensor (V3.1 or newer) since older versions won't work with newer Marlin firmware.

LED Strips

Proper print illumination allows you to identify issues with your prints early—it's also nice to be able to see what's happening clearly. There are tons of methods for adding an LED strip to your 3D printer. I prefer one that places the light source as high as possible in order to illuminate the entire print bed, not just the current print area.

I wrote a comprehensive guide on adding an LED strip to your 3D printer, featuring the Ender 3 specifically. Using the method outlined there, you can even power your LED strip directly from your Ender 3 by regulating the voltage using this buck converter in conjunction with this XT60 splitter cable.

Bed Springs

Your bed springs might seem like an insignificant part of your 3D printer, but they're actually quite important to bed leveling and stability.

The stock Ender 3 bed springs are terrible and can lead to print issues and frequent bed leveling. These issues are largely caused by:

The cheap metal used to manufacture the springs, and

The rounded design of the springs themselves

In fact, if you compare the stock and upgraded springs side by side, you can see only the upgraded ones feature a flat surface on the top and bottom. This leads to less shifting compared to the stock springs.

Upgraded Ender 3 springs take minutes to install and mean less frequent bed leveling between prints. This upgrade costs about $10, making it one of the least expensive Ender 3 upgrades out there.

10PCS Creality 3D 8*25MM Leveling Spring For CR Series/Ender Series 3D Printer

 

Metal Feeder Assembly

The plastic metal feeder assembly on the Ender 3 leaves something to be desired, and improper tension can even cause feeder gear skips, leaving gaps in the layers of your print. Installing an all-metal feeder assembly such as this one will add durability and stability to your printer.

Creality 3D All Metal MK-8 Extruder Feeder Drive Aluminum 1.75mm for CR-10/CR-10S/Ender-3 Series

 

Stepper Motor Dampers

Yet another noise mod—adding these dampers to your X- and Y-axis stepper motors decreases the noise they generate by 5-10dB. This is a simple, inexpensive mod with a measurable noise reduction impact.

Direct Drive Extruder

Creality 3D Direct Drive Extruder Nozzle Kit with Stepper Motor For Ender-3 Series

 

  • All-metal case, sturdy and wearable
  • Direct extruding, more precise feed-in
  • Compatible with more filament. such as TPU, PLA, ABS, etc
  • Easy to install and use
  • Suitable for Ender-3 Series
  • Output voltage: 24V

 

Firmware Upgrade

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